For the unacquainted, Brazilian cuisine likely conjures up images of barbequed meat being served on knives and skewers, as is done in churrascarias or Brazilian steakhouses that have been popularized in the United States through a variety of chain restaurants and in movies (like the recent "Bridesmaids"). For a mid-sized city, Rochester is lucky to have its fair share of Latin-American restaurants serving up Mexican, Cuban, Dominican, and Puerto Rican food. But when Paulo Caifa Botelho moved to Rochester with his wife (a native Rochesterian), he found the area lacking in authentic Brazilian cuisine.

"I researched the opportunity and what the market looked like," says Botelho. "And I really wanted to bring a new kind of dish to the area."

In August Botelho opened Samba Cafe, which specializes in Brazilian cuisine, specifically the food of Minas Gerais, the Brazilian state from which he hails, known as Cozinha Mineira.

"People from Brazil know right away what state I am from based on the food," Botelho says, citing the main differentiators being spices like green onion and garlic, beans thickened with flour, and regional aesthetics like orange tomato sauce and brighter rice.

At first glance the menu may seem like that of any traditional lunch haunt, offering salads, wraps, paninis, and smoothies. The difference is in the details. All salads start with a base of romaine lettuce and tomatoes and are then topped with unique offerings like cashews, hearts of palm, grapes, blueberries, and green olives. The main lunch special is what Botelho has termed "the Brazilian plate," which includes rice, black beans, romaine, vinaigrette, salsa, and meat, which rotates daily between chicken, lime-marinated pork, and grilled steak. The wraps and panini may sound out of place on Brazilian menu, but they serve up the same great flavors as the plate in more accessible and portable way.

"Sometimes people think that because it's Brazilian food it will be too exotic, and they won't want it at lunchtime," says Botelho. "So I've tried to incorporate some American-friendly foods but with a Brazilian style."

The real treat comes on Fridays, when Botelho arrives at the restaurant at 4 a.m. to beginning preparing the feijoada, a traditional Brazilian stew made with black beans, pork butts, beef, sausage, bay leaves, and shredded collard greens served over white rice. By time the restaurant opens, the stew has been simmering for six hours, allowing all of the flavors to meld into a truly authentic dish. Don't show up late, though, as it is often gone after the lunch rush.

To find Samba Cafe in City Newspaper's online Restaurant Guide - including a map, user reviews, and more - click here.

Samba Cafe is located at 350 State St. Prices range from $3 to $9. It is open Mondays-Fridays 10 a.m.-5 p.m. In October, the hours will expand to 9 p.m. on Fridays 9 p.m. and 4-9 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. For more information, call 287-5700 or visit sambacafeauthenticbrazilian.com.

Get cooking

The Rochester Public Market cookbook is coming soon. The 100-page cookbook features recipes and anecdotes from farmers, vendors, shoppers, and local chefs. Proceeds from the cookbook benefit the Market Token program, which allows people with food-stamp benefits to purchase wooden tokens that they can use as money at the Market.

The cookbook costs $22.99 and can be ordered at the Rochester Public Market (280 N. Union St.), or online at marketfriends.org. The Public Market is open year-round, Tuesdays and Thursdays from 6 a.m.-1 p.m. and Saturdays from 5 a.m.-3 p.m.

Be good to yourself

On the heels of celebrating its 30th anniversary in September, Lori's Natural Foods (900 Jefferson Road) is holding its 9th Annual Taste of Lori's event on Sunday, October 2, 6:30-8:30 p.m. As in the past, the event will feature more than 30 vendors offering a variety of natural, gluten-free, dairy-free, and raw foods. New this year, the tasting event will feature outdoor tents with live music starting at 5:30 p.m., featuring the Sim Redmond Band and The White Hots. There will also be face painting, a coloring contest and, as made famous in the store's television ads, a guest appearance from the dancing banana. For more information call 424-2323 or visit lorisnatural.com.

Closings

Mama Rosa Ristorante (1733 Norton St), an old-style Italian restaurant, has closed. The restaurant's owners, Anthony and Isabelle Suero, who operated the restaurant for 21 years, have decided to retire. They have also closed their neighboring restaurant, Mama Rosa Express, which opened earlier this year and offered more casual choices like pizza and burgers. The couple's daughter, Rosey Vitale, operates the popular Rosey's Italian Cafe (2133 Five Mile Line Road) with her husband Rick, which moved to Penfield from downtown last spring.

Bertino's Italian Food To Go (649 Monroe Ave.) has closed. The pizza and Italian food restaurant was situated in the space formerly occupied by Rookies Express and Mark's Pizzeria before that. It served pizza (including a huge quarter-pie slice), calzones, pasta dinners, subs, and more. Attempts to reach the owner to determine the reason for closing were unsuccessful, but the restaurant has been lights-out since the summer and the phone has been disconnected.

Walia Ethiopian Cafe (525 Ridge Road East), which opened its doors earlier this year, has closed. The restaurant served traditional Ethiopian dishes, including injera (a yeast-risen flatbread) and chicken, beef, lamb, and vegetarian entrees. It also offered an Ethiopian dinner buffet and hand-brewed coffees. Attempts to reach the owners for comment were unsuccessful, but the restaurant has a "for sale" sign in the window and the phone has been disconnected.

Do you have a food or restaurant tip for our Chow Hound? Send it to food@rochester-citynews.com.