I didn't see them at first, given that there's so much to stir the senses upon walking into Pittsford's new Village Bakery and Caf$#233;. Yet there they were, nestled demurely in their trays: my beloved macarons. Not to be confused with coconut macaroons, macarons ($1.50 each) are deliciously colorful French cookies typically made from ground almonds, sugar, and egg whites, then sandwiched together with assorted fillings. And a quick glance at Village Bakery's other showcases suggested an unmistakable Gallic bent, with delicate madeleines (75 cents each) and flaky palmiers ($1.75) sharing space with traditional American bakery staples like half-moon cookies ($1.75), snickerdoodles ($1.50), and a vanilla cake ($4.25 for a small, $18.95 for a large) with honest-to-goodness specks of the vanilla bean peeking through the buttercream.
If you're looking for the currently ubiquitous cupcake, however, you won't find it at Village Bakery. "We're going for a little different flavor profile," says general manager Marie Nye, whose claim was confirmed the instant a buttery blackberry-sage tea cookie (40 cents apiece) dissolved on my tongue. And vying for attention with pastry chef Meghan Miller's inspired creations is head baker Isaac Eberlin's gorgeously rustic European-style bread, such as a pointy torpedo ($3.75) and an organic pain au levain ($4.25), with loaves like cinnamon brioche ($4.50) and other varieties available on weekends.
Village Bakery, incidentally, is where the equipment from the dearly departed Little Bakery landed, and Eberlin also uses that gear to supply bread to Village Bakery's high-end sister outfits, Jojo Bistro & Wine Bar and Black & Blue Steak and Crab.
Perhaps you noticed the "and Café" part of the new venue's name. Village Bakery also serves breakfast until 11 a.m. (11:30 a.m. on Saturdays and 1 p.m. on Sundays), and lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. (except Sundays), with the bread naturally playing a starring role in both meals. Chef de cuisine Stephanie Sanger-Miller sources free-range eggs as well as local meats and cheeses to make open-face breakfast sandwiches (try the Alex: whisked egg, goat cheese, arugula, and pesto on nine-grain bread; $8.95), and at lunch offers soups, salads, sandwiches, and tartines like housemade herbed ricotta on a toasted baguette ($6.95).
Yes, there are many gustatory decisions to make, but don't fret. "You're going into a bakery," says Nye. "You're treating yourself to something."
Village Bakery and Café is located at 5 State St., Pittsford. It is open Monday-Friday 6 a.m.-7 p.m., Saturday 6:30 a.m.-7 p.m., and Sunday 6:30 a.m.-4 p.m. For more information, call 203-1311 or visit villagebakeries.com.
Roam Italy
Just a few doors away from its excellent Ristorante Lucano, the Formoso family has recently opened a store specializing in Italian imports. The Specialty Shoppe stocks oils, pastas (including a protein-rich farro penne), all manner of truffle products, candies, and cured meats, offering a number of the selections as part of some creative gift baskets. And Lucano fans should know that the Shoppe also carries some of the restaurant's staples for home enjoyment, like the pillowy housemade potato gnocchi and savory tomato sauce. Co-owner JoAnn Formoso reports that the added footage will also be home to Lucano's upcoming catering business, so if you didn't have a reason to start planning a party, you certainly do now.
Ristorante Lucano Specialty Shoppe is located at 1803 East Ave. Food prices range from $4.95 to $21.95. It is open Tuesday-Saturday 11 a.m.-7 p.m. For more information, call 244-0844 or visit Lucano's Facebook page.
Finding the sweet spot
It's one of the more satisfying regional success stories in the past few years. Hedonist Artisan Chocolates owners Jennifer Posey and Zahra Langford took a chance on making and selling handcrafted chocolates from a tucked-away retail space in the South Wedge, and their faith in both the evolving neighborhood and Rochester's discerning sweet tooth has paid off in a handsome new storefront right on South Avenue. Of course, Hedonist continues to offer its sublime confections, such as caramels, barks, and truffles in innovative flavor combinations like raspberry-wasabi and peanut butter-cayenne. (That dangerous half-off basket of "mistakes" also made the move, thankfully.) But the new space will allow for tastings and classes in the future, as well as an opportunity to watch the Hedonist chocolatiers practice their artful science.
Hedonist Artisan Chocolates is located at 674 South Ave. It is open Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. For more information, call 461-2815 or visit hedonistchocolates.com.
Pretty tied up
So you bought the passionate cook in your life the Rochester Public Market Cookbook for Christmas, and now, less than two months later, it's Valentine's Day. Why not give them the matching apron, a gift that says both "I love you" and "Quit wiping your hands on your clothes"? The full-sized apron, available in red or black, shares the cookbook's theme of "At The Heart Of It All" and is available for $18.89 plus tax at the Rochester Public Market on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., and on Saturdays until 3 p.m. Proceeds from the apron sales support the Market Token Program, which enables those with food-stamp benefits to purchase fresh, healthy foods from vendors at the Market. For more information visit the Public Market visit cityofrochester.gov/publicmarket.
Closed
The Italian restaurant Portofino Bistro (2171 West Henrietta Road) is no longer open. No reason is known for the closing.
Seems like that temporary closure might be more permanent for Lee's Vietnamese Sandwiches (982 Monroe Ave.). There are "for rent" signs up on the storefront after less than a year in business.
Chow Hound is a food and restaurant news column. Do you have a tip? Send it to food@rochester-citynews.com.





Comments for "CHOW HOUND: Village Bakery and Café, Ristorante Lucano, Hedonist, Public Market Cookbook, and closings" (1)
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DaAMange said on Feb. 14, 2012 at 5:18pm
We tried the new Village Bakery and Cafe over the weekend. First impression is that the popular artisanal farm movement creatively inspires the design and menu. The space however is very cold and industrial, a true juxtaposition. We ordered several sandwiches and a specialty coffee. My husband thought his croquet-madame was very good; the yolk perfectly runny and the sandwich hearty. The bread clearly is the star of the show no matter what you order, as it should be, it's delicious. I had their version of a BLT, aptly named the B.A.L.T., which includes pancetta in place of the bacon, arugula and basil for the lettuce, and an addition of avocado. The flavors were fresh and satisfying. We finished our meal with a small selection of macarons, the strawberry being our favorite with a light filling and crisp shell. My one overall complaint would be the prices. Knowing the location I was not surprised for what they charge, but when taking into account the portion sizes I expected more. My sandwich was just under $9 and was the size of a closed fist, a total of maybe 6 bites.
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