Opened by the De Velder brothers and their partner, Phil Kyle, in December 2009 in a renovated train station near the shores of Conesus Lake, Ember Woodfire Grill calls to mind swanky steakhouses and big-city power bars: it is done up in artfully exposed stone- and woodwork, hardwood, and distressed concrete with open flames flickering in recessed sconces. But Ember is neither pretentious nor particularly pricy, especially given the mammoth size of the portions that emerge from the kitchen at what seems like a breakneck pace. The beauty of Ember Woodfire Grill is that it can be pretty much whatever you want: on one night you can have an upscale tapas meal; on another, you can indulge in bar food. Panko-crusted chicken "stix" and Angus beef sliders share space with tangy grilled-pork skewers finished with a spicy peach salsa and a delicate-looking asparagus, pear, and gruyere tart. Thin-crusted pizzas - cheese still bubbling, bottoms dotted with hot spots, tasting faintly of wood smoke - clamor for attention. So do racks of spareribs, cooked low and slow in the wood oven. The DeVelders make pretty much everything they serve from scratch, using recipes either handed down from their mother, or inspired by her cooking. Be sure to try the daily "house pickled selection," which complements just about any meal on the menu.

For the full review of Ember Woodfire Grill by City Newspaper's restaurant critic, click here.